It turns out 'most' of my cheap art materials work just perfectly. This however failed to extend to my cheap'o cling film (shrink wrap). It turns out the stuff i bought is a little too cheap to work with in the manor i wanted. it's like working with transparant cloud like material & simply won't do what i want & loves to torment me by wrapping it'self up in it'self as i unroll it...
A list of streaming profanities followed here that i didn't type out of course. Anyway back to normality. I am having to shelve this experiment until i can get my hands on some decent cling film.
Friday, 21 August 2009
Thursday, 20 August 2009
THE NEW BORN CONTINUES TO GROW & WILL BE BORN ON THE 21st AUGUST
Well I have created ALL the parts of my new screamer now & will be completing the actual full build of him tomorrow on the 21st of August. I will then be painting him on the 22nd too. I will of course be videoing the whole thing & will have the video on YouTube a day or so later. I guarantee he will have a gross but hysterical factor of 100% folks.
A DEVIL OF A COMMISION
I have been given my first commission today (late this evening) out of the blue. I was asked to make a pair of demon wings that could be fitted & removed to & from the back of a devil related fancy dress costume. I have not seen the dress yet so have no idea what kind of fastening to employ in the design, but I have a lot of idea’s so choosing the best suited is all that remains for that end of the build. I will be using a modyfied version of my dragon wings which you can see in my YouTube video's listed below.
In all I have three days starting the 20th August. In fact due to the size of the build I only need one day. The wings are to be not much bigger than two hands, around fifteen to twenty inches in height. Since the size & the weight due to my construction methods is perfect for this project apart from colour(s) the final fitting/detachable methods are my only real problems with this project I remain confident a single day is all i require.
I will post some pictures of the final design the minute I have them made. With a bit of luck I might get the new owner to pose with them too. More on this soon.
In all I have three days starting the 20th August. In fact due to the size of the build I only need one day. The wings are to be not much bigger than two hands, around fifteen to twenty inches in height. Since the size & the weight due to my construction methods is perfect for this project apart from colour(s) the final fitting/detachable methods are my only real problems with this project I remain confident a single day is all i require.
I will post some pictures of the final design the minute I have them made. With a bit of luck I might get the new owner to pose with them too. More on this soon.
Monday, 17 August 2009
MASS PAPER MACHE ARMATURE PRODUCTION USING PLASTER MOULDS PART 1
One of my several paper mache projects designated as ‘future projects’ are a series of small & large water features. The projects will be ‘indoor based’ & will contain ‘real’ flowing water as part of the final project(s). One particular project requires a small group of dolphins to be created. Apart from the obvious factor (the dolphins need to appear in their own pose) I also require at least five to six dolphins to make the piece more pleasing to the eye. In actual fact I can simply use two dolphin forms which I can then simply pose in a different position & altering each of the dolphin’s fins accordingly. I can achieve this by simply creating one dolphin swimming in a down ward pose & the other swimming in an up ward pose. I still however have to reproduce five to six actual dolphins to begin with.
To save time during the armature & final creation stage & be sure that each separate dolphin matches general uniformity (size & shape) with the least difficulty during their creation I propose to create two separate plaster castings from positive moulds (two halves of each dolphin formed from two half mould forms). Not having any ready made pre-bought dolphin figurines to cast from I then need to create my own. By creating my own I can then not only reproduce them in the sizes I require but also in the body positions I require too.
Here is how I went about creating the actual dolphin torso armatures prior to the actual plaster moulding:
STEP 1: To begin with I drew some simple dolphin forms on paper.
STEP 2: I then transferred these to stiff card.
STEP 3: I then simply cut the two dolphin shapes out from the card.
STEP 4: Next I covered the card forms in compacted foil to bulk out the 2D form into a 3D form. I then gave these armatures a few layers of paper strips. This will vary from each person’s projects in accordance to project size & the paper they use. Also HOW they intend to smooth out the final layers of paper. I will be gently hand sanding down each form prior to plaster moulding them.
This is as far as this project has currently gone to date. I shall post more on tis project as it develops.
To save time during the armature & final creation stage & be sure that each separate dolphin matches general uniformity (size & shape) with the least difficulty during their creation I propose to create two separate plaster castings from positive moulds (two halves of each dolphin formed from two half mould forms). Not having any ready made pre-bought dolphin figurines to cast from I then need to create my own. By creating my own I can then not only reproduce them in the sizes I require but also in the body positions I require too.
Here is how I went about creating the actual dolphin torso armatures prior to the actual plaster moulding:
STEP 1: To begin with I drew some simple dolphin forms on paper.
STEP 2: I then transferred these to stiff card.
STEP 3: I then simply cut the two dolphin shapes out from the card.
STEP 4: Next I covered the card forms in compacted foil to bulk out the 2D form into a 3D form. I then gave these armatures a few layers of paper strips. This will vary from each person’s projects in accordance to project size & the paper they use. Also HOW they intend to smooth out the final layers of paper. I will be gently hand sanding down each form prior to plaster moulding them.
This is as far as this project has currently gone to date. I shall post more on tis project as it develops.
Sunday, 16 August 2009
SUNDAY EXPERIMENTS PART 1
EXPERIMENT PART 1:
Okay after a long break due to work loads it is finally the start of experiment day Sunday This first experiment will actually be a two part thing. There are a few projects I want to make a tough transparent & sometimes a translucent skin for this two part experiment will give me all the data I need to know in advance for the other projects I have in mind. Ordinarily these Sunday. experiments will only consist of a single part. This first in many such Sunday experiments as I have already stated is to gather data for several projects.
In the first part of this experiment I am going to attempt to make two translucent dragon wings. The dragon is to be part of another project I have in mind. I will discuss ‘that’ in more detail another time what’s important here are the wings themselves. Initially the wings are of a simple design I have already created (see my YouTube video listing at the bottom of this blog for full building instructions) the only difference being in the ‘skin’ of the wing itself between the wing fingers.
Now to try & create this translucent skin I am going to use cling film or shrink wrap as it is sometimes called. How many actual layers it is going to take will in future is yet to be determined by the final wing size(s) so for now I am speculating around 6 layers for these particular wings which are by most sculpture sizes medium to large, but the final amount of layers may have to be increased later.
Each wing will be built from ‘both sides’ at once. By that I mean if I use 6 layers in all the 3 layers will be added to one side then 3 layers to the other side. To merge each layer & give overall strength I am going to coat each new layer of wing skin in clear varnish. Pure undiluted PVA glue would work just as well but PVA tends to turn milky when the amount is used in close unison such as I am about to attempt here. I should also point out that there are many different brands of varnish that will give different results, but I am using: RONSEAL ULTRA TOUGH HARDGLAZE. For the first initial coats I will be using varnish with a thin coating of water based pre-mixed paints. As I get closer to the final layers required I shall then be adding the vein details using CD pen permanent markers to draw in the tiny vein details. All this will be sealed within a final layer of cling film & varnish.
In the normal construction method for this wing design I would use two layers of basic type brown wrapping paper (waxed on one side & plain paper on the other) sealed with undiluted PVA glue. This gives that type of wing creation some flexibility when the wing is caught in a draught if some what stiff movement. I am hoping this NEW translucent wing design may have some if not all the same qualities.
Here is an example of the crude paper mache ‘test’ wings I will be using for this experiment:
RESULTS:
Okay after a long break due to work loads it is finally the start of experiment day Sunday This first experiment will actually be a two part thing. There are a few projects I want to make a tough transparent & sometimes a translucent skin for this two part experiment will give me all the data I need to know in advance for the other projects I have in mind. Ordinarily these Sunday. experiments will only consist of a single part. This first in many such Sunday experiments as I have already stated is to gather data for several projects.
In the first part of this experiment I am going to attempt to make two translucent dragon wings. The dragon is to be part of another project I have in mind. I will discuss ‘that’ in more detail another time what’s important here are the wings themselves. Initially the wings are of a simple design I have already created (see my YouTube video listing at the bottom of this blog for full building instructions) the only difference being in the ‘skin’ of the wing itself between the wing fingers.
Now to try & create this translucent skin I am going to use cling film or shrink wrap as it is sometimes called. How many actual layers it is going to take will in future is yet to be determined by the final wing size(s) so for now I am speculating around 6 layers for these particular wings which are by most sculpture sizes medium to large, but the final amount of layers may have to be increased later.
Each wing will be built from ‘both sides’ at once. By that I mean if I use 6 layers in all the 3 layers will be added to one side then 3 layers to the other side. To merge each layer & give overall strength I am going to coat each new layer of wing skin in clear varnish. Pure undiluted PVA glue would work just as well but PVA tends to turn milky when the amount is used in close unison such as I am about to attempt here. I should also point out that there are many different brands of varnish that will give different results, but I am using: RONSEAL ULTRA TOUGH HARDGLAZE. For the first initial coats I will be using varnish with a thin coating of water based pre-mixed paints. As I get closer to the final layers required I shall then be adding the vein details using CD pen permanent markers to draw in the tiny vein details. All this will be sealed within a final layer of cling film & varnish.
In the normal construction method for this wing design I would use two layers of basic type brown wrapping paper (waxed on one side & plain paper on the other) sealed with undiluted PVA glue. This gives that type of wing creation some flexibility when the wing is caught in a draught if some what stiff movement. I am hoping this NEW translucent wing design may have some if not all the same qualities.
Here is an example of the crude paper mache ‘test’ wings I will be using for this experiment:
A close up of the painted on skin texture:
RESULTS:
Will be listed next Sunday
EXPERIMENT PART 2:
In this second part of this experiment I shall be attempting to make again translucent but hollow crystals। Again like the dragon wings these crystals are for another future project. By chance they are for the same project as the dragon wings. The reason I am going to use the same method to make the crystals comes about because I want to be able to make hollow (light weight) crystals to order, to any size & to be able to allow a back light to show through them. Like the dragon wings they will be coloured (tinted) to the required final colour(s) when complete. Many of the same methods used to create the final translucent dragons wings will be used here. The only real difference with be a paper mache mould to create the final form (shape) of the crystals that I plan to make.
EXPERIMENT PART 2:
In this second part of this experiment I shall be attempting to make again translucent but hollow crystals। Again like the dragon wings these crystals are for another future project. By chance they are for the same project as the dragon wings. The reason I am going to use the same method to make the crystals comes about because I want to be able to make hollow (light weight) crystals to order, to any size & to be able to allow a back light to show through them. Like the dragon wings they will be coloured (tinted) to the required final colour(s) when complete. Many of the same methods used to create the final translucent dragons wings will be used here. The only real difference with be a paper mache mould to create the final form (shape) of the crystals that I plan to make.
Here are some examples of the crude paper mache ‘test’ crystals I will be using for this experiment:
RESULTS:
Will be listed next Sunday
You can see this full experiment in they’re OWN HOW TO video’s on YouTUbe. The video links WILL be added to my YouTube listing at the bottom of this blog the moment I have it uploaded.
Saturday, 15 August 2009
SUNDAY EXPERIMENTS
It’s been a bit of a tradition of mine to do my paper mache experiments & tests on a Sunday. With having been so busy recently I haven’t had a chance to get these underway until now.
I have a few NEW projects in mind which require a clear strong skin to be created & I have something in mind for my first experiments. The two projects include a translucent (colour tinted to match the dragon in question) dragon wing & some large crystals like the ones shown below.
How the tests will turn out is any ones guess but tomorrow is the day on which my experiments start again. I will not have any finished results tomorrow but will post these two experiments & what I did so far then.
AN EXAMPLE OF THE CRYSTALS I WANT TO RE-CREATE:
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I have a few NEW projects in mind which require a clear strong skin to be created & I have something in mind for my first experiments. The two projects include a translucent (colour tinted to match the dragon in question) dragon wing & some large crystals like the ones shown below.
How the tests will turn out is any ones guess but tomorrow is the day on which my experiments start again. I will not have any finished results tomorrow but will post these two experiments & what I did so far then.
AN EXAMPLE OF THE CRYSTALS I WANT TO RE-CREATE:
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THE NEW BORN CONTINUES TO GROW
From the moment of his conception to is actual birth this new screamer is continuing to grow & evolve. His hands now have claw like nails along with knuckles in all the right places. His arms shown here are in the final position they will be in when fitted fully. They are only perched right now for the photograph. The eye sections of his stalked eyes have been constructed & are awaiting the final fitting (not shown here). The top of his head is temporarily in place but like his arms only there for the photograph. His stalk like eyes will be attached to this small head bump later along with two elongated ears (stored inside his mouth for now).
His legs are now fully fitted & his claw like toe nails are still to be fitted as yet along with his large tongue (yet to be constructed) & small chin too. There are a few other bits to be added yet but I won’t say just what they are for now. Once all his limbs have been fitted I will be adding a layer of tissue skin before painting. More on this guy soon folks.
His legs are now fully fitted & his claw like toe nails are still to be fitted as yet along with his large tongue (yet to be constructed) & small chin too. There are a few other bits to be added yet but I won’t say just what they are for now. Once all his limbs have been fitted I will be adding a layer of tissue skin before painting. More on this guy soon folks.
Sunday, 9 August 2009
A NEW SCREAMER IS ALMOST BORN
In just a few days (I hope am extremely busy – always) a NEW screamer will be born to Darkside Creations. Unlike my troll screamers which are still in the works this is just a traditional random creature style screamer. Though it is called M.O.T. S. (Made Of Totally Spare parts). With a little luck it will be my wackiest creation yet. I will post the full set of pictures the moment it’s complete. Here IS A sneak peek at his torso & limbs so far
TRICKS & TIPS No.1
Notice how the larger balloon is higher up from the radiator, whilst the smaller balloon is closer?
Thicker layered projects can sit directly ON the radiator, but balloons need more care.
Thicker layered projects can sit directly ON the radiator, but balloons need more care.
30 THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT BALLOONS
30 THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT BALLOON AS PART OF ARMATURES THE CAN’S, CANT’S & DON’TS.
This information has been gathered over a 10 month period in which I gained hands on experience using balloons for either partial inclusion(s) or as full actual armatures for many paper mache projects. The balloons I have & still use vary in size, physical thickness & all round type & quality. When reading this information several factors MUST be taking into consideration. These factors will be listed throughout this post. This list has been compiled thanks to MY personal experience gained, but should NOT be considered to be a fixed rule book per say. The information in this list CAN & SHOULD be assumed to be ‘flexible' when used in varying way’s & methods according to YOUR project(s) requirements, other materials & working conditions. Unless otherwise stated ALL references using the term ‘PM STRIPS’ refers to standard paper ‘strips’ ‘triangles’ ‘rectangles’ & ‘squares’. ALL glue(s) reffered to are PVA.
Q1) How many strips can be added to a balloon?
Q2) What glue can I use on a balloon?
Q3) What is the best way to start adding strips to a balloon?
Q4) How can I make my balloon armature stronger with less layers – Even when using PVA?
Q5) I do not want to use pulp so what can i do to still improve strength whilst keeping strips & weight to a minimum?
Q6) what is the minimum of strips I can add to a balloon before bursting the balloon?
Q7) What is the minimum glue to water ratio I can use before I need worry about strength failing when reducing strips for weight whilst retaining strength??
Q8) What is the worst type of paper to use as strips on a balloon?
Q9) What if any problems should I be aware of when using very watery PVA with news paper?
A10) I prefer my glue & paste(s) to be watery what effect if any will this have on drying times?
Q11) How can I speed up drying times so I can add as more strips per sitting?
Q12) A fan & warm room helps but can I do more to speed up drying so I can add more strips during a sitting?
Q13) When adding any kind of paper strips to a balloon they slide around as I try to brush or wipe them into place. How can I stop this?
Q14) No matter how few or what type of paper & glue(s) or paste(s) I am using my balloons are shrinking over night resulting in warping or fully collapsed balloons.
Q15) What is the recommended way to dry a balloon armature with a radiator as a heat source?
Q16) If hanging a balloon armature is the only way to dry it then why do most of my balloons then burst?
Q17) When using a balloon as an armature some of my balloons paper layers have split why is this happening?
A18) Sometimes when I burst a balloon armature the balloon inside comes away clean & other times the balloon either remains stuck to the inside of the paper strips in fragments or the whole balloon sticks warping my armature why is this happening?
Q19) I want to cut up a balloon armature to use as part(s) of another armature or sculpture but after adding a lot of paper strips I have found it difficult to cut. What can I do to make this easier?
Q20) What problems should I expect from shrinking with watered down or water based glue(s)?
Q21) When adding strips to my balloon armature & allowed it to fully dry I can no longer burst the balloon. Should I be aware of any problems this might cause later?
Q22) Can any balloon or inflatable latex or plastic item be used as an armature?
Q23) Mid way through adding layers (or drying) my balloon burst. I have several layers applied, can I save this armature?
Q24) I only require a part of the balloon to be layered in paper strips can I do this to create a specific shape to reduce cutting later for use in making a bowl for example?
Q25) Will a balloon armature used in conjunction with other stronger materials such as wood, plastic, metal effect the integrity of the final sculpture?
Q26) What can I use to paint a armature created by a balloon?
Q27) Am I limited as to what shapes or forms I can make with a balloon armature?
Q28) Will a very large balloon armature require additional internal support when completed?
Q29) I want to create large egg sculptures using balloons but do not want to use paper strips how can I do this?
Q30) I want to ‘shape’ the balloon armature by pushing in certain sections or areas how do I do this?
A1) Adding PM paper strips of ANY grade or paper type(s) CAN be added DIRECTLY to ANY balloon. From the first layer to the final layer with virtually ANY glue type.
A2) Essentially ALL glues & paints CAN be applied directly to ANY balloon(s), but, MUST be of a type that will not have any adverse reactions to LATEX balloons which this information refers to at ALL times.
A3) When adding PM strips to a balloon I recommend you use un-diluted PVA for the first 2/6 layers. After that the glue can be diluted using either water alone or other mediums. When using water ONLY as a thinner then the ratios WILL vary according to the project size & shape, BUT, all round strength WILL remain high with ALL NONE waxed paper types. MINIMUM ratios of water as a thinner with MOST PVA based glues can be around 20% glue to 80% water. After this I can not state what strength the bonded paper/glue(s) may retain. In ALL projects experimentation IS advised when using un-known paper & glue types.
A4) A combination of strips then pulp then strips CAN be used & will provide a strong finish.
A5) When using strips alone when/where possible overall strength Can be improved whilst keeping weight & amounts of strips required down by cross hatching the strips ie: vertical then horizontal layering of the strips. A minimum of 1mm ‘overlap’ one ALL strip types IS recommended. A final ‘smooth’ finish can be achieved by NOT overlapping the final 4/6 layers of strips.
A6) When using PVA undiluted it IS possible to burst the balloon after only 2/4 strips have been added, but it IS recommended that you add a minimum of 8/10 layers before this step.
A7) When using watered down PVA where the water ratio exceeds 50% glue to 50% water a minimum of 10/14 strips is recommended BEFORE bursting the balloon(s). The artist SHOULD also take into account the balloon armature size, paper type/thickness, pulp type/thickness applied FIRST before bursting the balloon(s). IF in doubt when/where possible simply leave the balloon(s) intact.
A8) Most ‘glossy’ papers ie: magazine paper WILL wrinkle during application & drying. As a rule these wrinkles WILL NOT disappear.
A9) News paper WILL wrinkly IF the PVA is too watery, as with rule 8 these wrinkles in most cases will NOT disappear. You CAN ‘work’ or ‘rub’ out the wrinkles that may form using news paper.
A10) Very watery PVA (or most pastes) WILL take longer to dry as the balloon(s) will act as a shield against the first few layers of strips & the water they retain. If using watery glue(s) or paste(s) then allow a longer drying time or reduce layers added at a sitting.
A11) Using undiluted PVA in a warm room & or with a fan blowing at the project WILL partially dry the strips & glue allowing for MORE strips to be added during a single sitting. Balloon size, paper types & glue(s) or paste(s) used may vary the results.
A12) Using undiluted PVA on a balloon (or indeed anything) will allow the artist to apply as many strips & or full layers as they have the patience to apply as long as the previous layer(s) are dry to the touch. I do recommend how ever a maximum of 10 layers per session to ensure even with undiluted PVA dried fully prior to both bursting the balloon & using the armature created.
A13) When using watery NONE PVA based OR very watery PVA on the FIRST layer of the balloon the strips WILL tend to slide around. To combat this paint a thin layer of PVA or none PVA glue onto the immediate area of the balloon to be worked on then give it a few seconds (times WILL vary depending on glues type used & how watery it is) before adding the first layer of paper strips. Once the first layer has been added then the artist should not experience any ‘sliding’ problems.
A14) PM’ing balloons IS BEST performed in a stable cold or warm environment. IF the environmental temperatures fluxuate then the balloon WILL shrink, in the worst case sinario this may be to a point where the balloon will appear to be leaking. To prevent this ONLY PM a balloon in stable ‘cold’ OR stable ‘warm’ conditions. Moving a balloon to a cooler environment regardless of strips & or layers added WILL result in the balloon(s) shrinking as mentioned. To combat this try to keep the balloon(s) in the SAME environment: Before, during & after adding the strips has begun. IF you have no choice & simply MUST place the balloon(s) to a new environment to dry. Then move the balloon(s) to a warmer STABLE environment.
A15) Drying a balloon armature IS a controversial & open to debate subject, especially in relation to radiator or other directly applied heat source drying. After much trial & error (& MANY unexpected very LARGE loud exploding balloons at 1am, 2am, 3am etc), I personally find that radiator drying IS viable but there ARE limitations & rules that MUST be observed. The following information is based on various balloon sizes, grades & drying exposure times. Also layers applied makes no difference to the following rules:
15a) Drying balloons near a radiator is best performed IF smaller balloon(s) are placed at a minimum of 12/14 inches from a radiator.
15b) Large balloon(s) are best placed at a minimum of 16/20 inches from a radiator.
15c) Placing ANY sized or quality of balloon(s) too close to ANY fixed heat source WILL result in the air inside the balloon(s) expanding & bursting.
A16) Suspending balloons when air OR radiator drying becomes difficult often resulting in burst balloon(s) IF:
A16a) NONE WAXED STRING IS USED TO SUSPEND THE BALLOON(S).
A16b) TOO MANY LAYERS HAVE BEEN ADDED MAKING THE BALLOON(S) TOO HEAVY.
A16c) BALLOON(S) FREELY SPINNING WILL RESULT IN THE LATEX OF THE BALLOON(S) NO
MATTER THE QUALITY – TEARING. TYING OFF THE STRING TO THE BALLOON(S) TOO TIGHTLY IS ANOTHER CAUSE.
A17) Never inflate a balloon to its maximum capacity prior to adding strips. Any expansion experienced during drying that whilst may not visibly seem to effect the layers ie: tearing. May STILL be enough to rupture the layered strips.
A18) Latex based glue(s) WILL adhere to ALL balloon(s) if used in an undiluted state. The MORE you dilute a latex based glue then it is less likely that the glue will stick to the balloon(s) once dry.
A19) IF a balloon armature is to be cut into multiple sections for use in shaping other armatures etc. It would then follow that the armature to be cut up would be easier to cut if it were as thin as possible first. With this in mind the following factors would be best noted: Between 4/6 FULL layers of strips WILL assist in making not only the armature lighter but & the cutting process easier but also the drying times would be reduced too, BUT, the following known problem(s) CAN & DO then often arise:
A19a) Using undiluted PVA based glue(s) WILL result in the strips sticking to the balloon(s). When the balloon(s) are then burst the armature if not FULLY dried can be irrevocably deformed or tear too badly to then recover & use. Using too few (minimum of x2 full layers) CAN often result in the armature ‘shattering’ & or tearing when FULLY dried. The then cut sections WILL be in MANY cases too thin to use & therefore work with on another armature or project.
A20) Shrinking WILL not be of any noticeable level as to effect the encased balloon(s) no matter what glue(s) or paste(s) are used during drying.
A21) No problems or concerns should arise from not bursting the balloon after completing the armature. In time the balloon will simply shrink inside the sculpture. Since by that time the sculpture will be well reinforced nothing of any concern will occur to your finished work.
A22) Yes, but IF the ‘other’ type of inflatable item is thin plastic or latex then ALL previous shrinking rules apply fully.
A23) YES, but you must know that speed & care are to be taken to insert a NEW balloon. You must take care to reduce the risk of crushing the soft armature. You must make sure the balloon IS of the same type & size/shape etc. You must not over inflate the replacement balloon or the soft layers of paper WILL split.
A24) YES, but take note: you MUST make sure the layers are sufficient to make the armature stronger than normal as the chances of warping WILL be greatly increased. IF creating an armature with only half or less of the balloons natural shape is to be employed then a minimum of 20/25 layers IS recommended no matter what the glue(s) or paste(s) type used.
A25) NO, but you MUST make sure that the balloon armature section(s) are reinforced enough with slightly more layers of paper than perhaps normally used.
A26) Once you have created a balloon armature you may paint it will any paints or combinations of paints & other materials you wish as with any other paper related sculpture.
A27) NO, as with any other armature you can create any base shape to then go on to sculpt up from there. Of course a little imagination & much cutting & gluing will be required even for the simplest of shapes at times. With a little imagination, time & care you can add balloon armatures & or pieces of balloon armatures together to make virtually any shapes you wish.
A28) Yes & NO, this all depends on the size of the balloon of which many extremely large balloons can now be purchased. IF the armature has received enough paper strips & layers prior to the actual sculpting taking place then in MOST cases the balloon based armature WILL cope easily. If in doubt as to the balloon based armature being able to withstand any extra pressure from the other sections of the sculpture or other outside forces then it may be a good idea to internally support the balloon based armature with some form of padding. In cases such as this I use ‘loosely’ scrunched up news paper liberally brushed with either undiluted or diluted PVA glue. This then creates a honey comb effect when dry adding much more light weight support.
A29) Blow up your chosen balloon to the size you require. Now make a mixture of PVA glue undiluted with flour (corn starch etc). Follow these ratios as the layers grow:
FIRST LAYER: 50% PVA glue to 50% flour
SECOND LAYER: 60% PVA glue to 40% flour
THIRD LAYER: 70% PVA glue to 30% flour
FOURTH LAYER: 80% PVA glue to30% flour.
FINAL TWO LAYERS: Finish as you would normally with paints & varnish, gesso or what ever you would normally use. You Can add paints or dyes to the mix as you progress to build up colour & the illusion of depth.
A30) On reaching the 4th or 6th layer of strips allow the armature to fully dry. Then using any kind of marker pen/pencil draw onto the paper ‘where’ you want to push in later. Now take care to ‘miss out’ these sections or areas as you continue to add strips to the rest of the armature. AFTER wards when you burst the balloon. This will make these sections or areas weaker allowing this to be done.
This information has been gathered over a 10 month period in which I gained hands on experience using balloons for either partial inclusion(s) or as full actual armatures for many paper mache projects. The balloons I have & still use vary in size, physical thickness & all round type & quality. When reading this information several factors MUST be taking into consideration. These factors will be listed throughout this post. This list has been compiled thanks to MY personal experience gained, but should NOT be considered to be a fixed rule book per say. The information in this list CAN & SHOULD be assumed to be ‘flexible' when used in varying way’s & methods according to YOUR project(s) requirements, other materials & working conditions. Unless otherwise stated ALL references using the term ‘PM STRIPS’ refers to standard paper ‘strips’ ‘triangles’ ‘rectangles’ & ‘squares’. ALL glue(s) reffered to are PVA.
Q1) How many strips can be added to a balloon?
Q2) What glue can I use on a balloon?
Q3) What is the best way to start adding strips to a balloon?
Q4) How can I make my balloon armature stronger with less layers – Even when using PVA?
Q5) I do not want to use pulp so what can i do to still improve strength whilst keeping strips & weight to a minimum?
Q6) what is the minimum of strips I can add to a balloon before bursting the balloon?
Q7) What is the minimum glue to water ratio I can use before I need worry about strength failing when reducing strips for weight whilst retaining strength??
Q8) What is the worst type of paper to use as strips on a balloon?
Q9) What if any problems should I be aware of when using very watery PVA with news paper?
A10) I prefer my glue & paste(s) to be watery what effect if any will this have on drying times?
Q11) How can I speed up drying times so I can add as more strips per sitting?
Q12) A fan & warm room helps but can I do more to speed up drying so I can add more strips during a sitting?
Q13) When adding any kind of paper strips to a balloon they slide around as I try to brush or wipe them into place. How can I stop this?
Q14) No matter how few or what type of paper & glue(s) or paste(s) I am using my balloons are shrinking over night resulting in warping or fully collapsed balloons.
Q15) What is the recommended way to dry a balloon armature with a radiator as a heat source?
Q16) If hanging a balloon armature is the only way to dry it then why do most of my balloons then burst?
Q17) When using a balloon as an armature some of my balloons paper layers have split why is this happening?
A18) Sometimes when I burst a balloon armature the balloon inside comes away clean & other times the balloon either remains stuck to the inside of the paper strips in fragments or the whole balloon sticks warping my armature why is this happening?
Q19) I want to cut up a balloon armature to use as part(s) of another armature or sculpture but after adding a lot of paper strips I have found it difficult to cut. What can I do to make this easier?
Q20) What problems should I expect from shrinking with watered down or water based glue(s)?
Q21) When adding strips to my balloon armature & allowed it to fully dry I can no longer burst the balloon. Should I be aware of any problems this might cause later?
Q22) Can any balloon or inflatable latex or plastic item be used as an armature?
Q23) Mid way through adding layers (or drying) my balloon burst. I have several layers applied, can I save this armature?
Q24) I only require a part of the balloon to be layered in paper strips can I do this to create a specific shape to reduce cutting later for use in making a bowl for example?
Q25) Will a balloon armature used in conjunction with other stronger materials such as wood, plastic, metal effect the integrity of the final sculpture?
Q26) What can I use to paint a armature created by a balloon?
Q27) Am I limited as to what shapes or forms I can make with a balloon armature?
Q28) Will a very large balloon armature require additional internal support when completed?
Q29) I want to create large egg sculptures using balloons but do not want to use paper strips how can I do this?
Q30) I want to ‘shape’ the balloon armature by pushing in certain sections or areas how do I do this?
A1) Adding PM paper strips of ANY grade or paper type(s) CAN be added DIRECTLY to ANY balloon. From the first layer to the final layer with virtually ANY glue type.
A2) Essentially ALL glues & paints CAN be applied directly to ANY balloon(s), but, MUST be of a type that will not have any adverse reactions to LATEX balloons which this information refers to at ALL times.
A3) When adding PM strips to a balloon I recommend you use un-diluted PVA for the first 2/6 layers. After that the glue can be diluted using either water alone or other mediums. When using water ONLY as a thinner then the ratios WILL vary according to the project size & shape, BUT, all round strength WILL remain high with ALL NONE waxed paper types. MINIMUM ratios of water as a thinner with MOST PVA based glues can be around 20% glue to 80% water. After this I can not state what strength the bonded paper/glue(s) may retain. In ALL projects experimentation IS advised when using un-known paper & glue types.
A4) A combination of strips then pulp then strips CAN be used & will provide a strong finish.
A5) When using strips alone when/where possible overall strength Can be improved whilst keeping weight & amounts of strips required down by cross hatching the strips ie: vertical then horizontal layering of the strips. A minimum of 1mm ‘overlap’ one ALL strip types IS recommended. A final ‘smooth’ finish can be achieved by NOT overlapping the final 4/6 layers of strips.
A6) When using PVA undiluted it IS possible to burst the balloon after only 2/4 strips have been added, but it IS recommended that you add a minimum of 8/10 layers before this step.
A7) When using watered down PVA where the water ratio exceeds 50% glue to 50% water a minimum of 10/14 strips is recommended BEFORE bursting the balloon(s). The artist SHOULD also take into account the balloon armature size, paper type/thickness, pulp type/thickness applied FIRST before bursting the balloon(s). IF in doubt when/where possible simply leave the balloon(s) intact.
A8) Most ‘glossy’ papers ie: magazine paper WILL wrinkle during application & drying. As a rule these wrinkles WILL NOT disappear.
A9) News paper WILL wrinkly IF the PVA is too watery, as with rule 8 these wrinkles in most cases will NOT disappear. You CAN ‘work’ or ‘rub’ out the wrinkles that may form using news paper.
A10) Very watery PVA (or most pastes) WILL take longer to dry as the balloon(s) will act as a shield against the first few layers of strips & the water they retain. If using watery glue(s) or paste(s) then allow a longer drying time or reduce layers added at a sitting.
A11) Using undiluted PVA in a warm room & or with a fan blowing at the project WILL partially dry the strips & glue allowing for MORE strips to be added during a single sitting. Balloon size, paper types & glue(s) or paste(s) used may vary the results.
A12) Using undiluted PVA on a balloon (or indeed anything) will allow the artist to apply as many strips & or full layers as they have the patience to apply as long as the previous layer(s) are dry to the touch. I do recommend how ever a maximum of 10 layers per session to ensure even with undiluted PVA dried fully prior to both bursting the balloon & using the armature created.
A13) When using watery NONE PVA based OR very watery PVA on the FIRST layer of the balloon the strips WILL tend to slide around. To combat this paint a thin layer of PVA or none PVA glue onto the immediate area of the balloon to be worked on then give it a few seconds (times WILL vary depending on glues type used & how watery it is) before adding the first layer of paper strips. Once the first layer has been added then the artist should not experience any ‘sliding’ problems.
A14) PM’ing balloons IS BEST performed in a stable cold or warm environment. IF the environmental temperatures fluxuate then the balloon WILL shrink, in the worst case sinario this may be to a point where the balloon will appear to be leaking. To prevent this ONLY PM a balloon in stable ‘cold’ OR stable ‘warm’ conditions. Moving a balloon to a cooler environment regardless of strips & or layers added WILL result in the balloon(s) shrinking as mentioned. To combat this try to keep the balloon(s) in the SAME environment: Before, during & after adding the strips has begun. IF you have no choice & simply MUST place the balloon(s) to a new environment to dry. Then move the balloon(s) to a warmer STABLE environment.
A15) Drying a balloon armature IS a controversial & open to debate subject, especially in relation to radiator or other directly applied heat source drying. After much trial & error (& MANY unexpected very LARGE loud exploding balloons at 1am, 2am, 3am etc), I personally find that radiator drying IS viable but there ARE limitations & rules that MUST be observed. The following information is based on various balloon sizes, grades & drying exposure times. Also layers applied makes no difference to the following rules:
15a) Drying balloons near a radiator is best performed IF smaller balloon(s) are placed at a minimum of 12/14 inches from a radiator.
15b) Large balloon(s) are best placed at a minimum of 16/20 inches from a radiator.
15c) Placing ANY sized or quality of balloon(s) too close to ANY fixed heat source WILL result in the air inside the balloon(s) expanding & bursting.
A16) Suspending balloons when air OR radiator drying becomes difficult often resulting in burst balloon(s) IF:
A16a) NONE WAXED STRING IS USED TO SUSPEND THE BALLOON(S).
A16b) TOO MANY LAYERS HAVE BEEN ADDED MAKING THE BALLOON(S) TOO HEAVY.
A16c) BALLOON(S) FREELY SPINNING WILL RESULT IN THE LATEX OF THE BALLOON(S) NO
MATTER THE QUALITY – TEARING. TYING OFF THE STRING TO THE BALLOON(S) TOO TIGHTLY IS ANOTHER CAUSE.
A17) Never inflate a balloon to its maximum capacity prior to adding strips. Any expansion experienced during drying that whilst may not visibly seem to effect the layers ie: tearing. May STILL be enough to rupture the layered strips.
A18) Latex based glue(s) WILL adhere to ALL balloon(s) if used in an undiluted state. The MORE you dilute a latex based glue then it is less likely that the glue will stick to the balloon(s) once dry.
A19) IF a balloon armature is to be cut into multiple sections for use in shaping other armatures etc. It would then follow that the armature to be cut up would be easier to cut if it were as thin as possible first. With this in mind the following factors would be best noted: Between 4/6 FULL layers of strips WILL assist in making not only the armature lighter but & the cutting process easier but also the drying times would be reduced too, BUT, the following known problem(s) CAN & DO then often arise:
A19a) Using undiluted PVA based glue(s) WILL result in the strips sticking to the balloon(s). When the balloon(s) are then burst the armature if not FULLY dried can be irrevocably deformed or tear too badly to then recover & use. Using too few (minimum of x2 full layers) CAN often result in the armature ‘shattering’ & or tearing when FULLY dried. The then cut sections WILL be in MANY cases too thin to use & therefore work with on another armature or project.
A20) Shrinking WILL not be of any noticeable level as to effect the encased balloon(s) no matter what glue(s) or paste(s) are used during drying.
A21) No problems or concerns should arise from not bursting the balloon after completing the armature. In time the balloon will simply shrink inside the sculpture. Since by that time the sculpture will be well reinforced nothing of any concern will occur to your finished work.
A22) Yes, but IF the ‘other’ type of inflatable item is thin plastic or latex then ALL previous shrinking rules apply fully.
A23) YES, but you must know that speed & care are to be taken to insert a NEW balloon. You must take care to reduce the risk of crushing the soft armature. You must make sure the balloon IS of the same type & size/shape etc. You must not over inflate the replacement balloon or the soft layers of paper WILL split.
A24) YES, but take note: you MUST make sure the layers are sufficient to make the armature stronger than normal as the chances of warping WILL be greatly increased. IF creating an armature with only half or less of the balloons natural shape is to be employed then a minimum of 20/25 layers IS recommended no matter what the glue(s) or paste(s) type used.
A25) NO, but you MUST make sure that the balloon armature section(s) are reinforced enough with slightly more layers of paper than perhaps normally used.
A26) Once you have created a balloon armature you may paint it will any paints or combinations of paints & other materials you wish as with any other paper related sculpture.
A27) NO, as with any other armature you can create any base shape to then go on to sculpt up from there. Of course a little imagination & much cutting & gluing will be required even for the simplest of shapes at times. With a little imagination, time & care you can add balloon armatures & or pieces of balloon armatures together to make virtually any shapes you wish.
A28) Yes & NO, this all depends on the size of the balloon of which many extremely large balloons can now be purchased. IF the armature has received enough paper strips & layers prior to the actual sculpting taking place then in MOST cases the balloon based armature WILL cope easily. If in doubt as to the balloon based armature being able to withstand any extra pressure from the other sections of the sculpture or other outside forces then it may be a good idea to internally support the balloon based armature with some form of padding. In cases such as this I use ‘loosely’ scrunched up news paper liberally brushed with either undiluted or diluted PVA glue. This then creates a honey comb effect when dry adding much more light weight support.
A29) Blow up your chosen balloon to the size you require. Now make a mixture of PVA glue undiluted with flour (corn starch etc). Follow these ratios as the layers grow:
FIRST LAYER: 50% PVA glue to 50% flour
SECOND LAYER: 60% PVA glue to 40% flour
THIRD LAYER: 70% PVA glue to 30% flour
FOURTH LAYER: 80% PVA glue to30% flour.
FINAL TWO LAYERS: Finish as you would normally with paints & varnish, gesso or what ever you would normally use. You Can add paints or dyes to the mix as you progress to build up colour & the illusion of depth.
A30) On reaching the 4th or 6th layer of strips allow the armature to fully dry. Then using any kind of marker pen/pencil draw onto the paper ‘where’ you want to push in later. Now take care to ‘miss out’ these sections or areas as you continue to add strips to the rest of the armature. AFTER wards when you burst the balloon. This will make these sections or areas weaker allowing this to be done.
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