Work on the unfinished Troll Screamers shown above as well as several NEW Troll Screamers will resume soon. I have several body parts ready to go for the new creations.

Monday, 24 May 2010


Everything was going fantastic this weekend gone with everything i planned to do on schedual a truely rare thing for me. Then BAM!, i forgot once i had the final flesh tones on Sharky & the witch Troll Screamers especially the witch since she is to be dressed over 'semi-exposed' area's (under her dress) i would then have to varnish her BEFORE i could continue to dress her!.

So as i say everything went on schedual, but NOW i have to wait a couple of days before i can finish dressing her then take any pictures to post here. That means it is entirely MY fault this time that 'what did this weekend' is going to be late - again!. I CAN how ever show you how Sharky's boarding cutlass turned out since that was completed yesterday at least:. Click on any of the pictures below to get a better look:


If you remember how it looked the last time i showed it? The basic construction is 1mm cardstock (pizza box) to make the blade with cerial cardstock shaped to make the hand guard. The handle is simply the inner tube from some tin foil which i slightly squashed to form the handles final shape. A small piece of cardstock capped off the foil inner tubes end nicely.
I added a couple of layers of news paper strips to give the blade some strength & a little more thickness so i could sand down the edges to make a slight cutting edge. Once fully dried i then painted the entire 'metal' portions with some silver water based paint as a base coat.
Once the base coat was fully dried i then gave it a coat of Plasti-Kote brand 'metal hammer' metalic finish spray paint. Now this is not like standard high gloss silver spray paint which has a superb high gloss finish. No this paint has a wonderfull dull, oily, blistered aged finish to it. I know thats a hard description to understand here is a close up of the paints finish:

This shot is a little dark. In the real world those 'dark' regions are not quite that dark more about half as dark as is shown here. The blistering shown is more like burst bubbles, with actual slight depressions & smooth area's inbetween. The whole finish looks & feels metal smooth (apart from the really small mixed burst blisters/bubble effect). The look IS an amazing aged steel effect & can be achieved in a single medium thick coating too.

I  created a nice dark burnt umber colour for one of the wood colours for the handle, but it made a perfect aged/rusty surface for the metal area's of the sword too. So i lightly sponged on a thin layer here & there. Before it dried i then 'dabbed' the fresh paint  with a dry cloth to remove the excess paint. The result speaks for itself i think?

For the handle i painted on a good even layer of the dark burnt umber colour i made. I then lightened the burnt umber twice making two more shades of the same colour. Only using small amounts on a long bristled brush i then 'gently' brushed on some intermittent strokes of the two lighter shades allowing each to dry fully before brushing on the next.

Now the 'normal' thing to do here would be to let the paint fully dry before sealing, but!, i wanted to age the entire cutlass finish. To do this i simply brushed on some clear water based varnish at the stage where the fresh paint just began to feel dry if touched gently. I very carefully brushed on the varnish making sure the brush did not go dry or the varnish go on too thin. The result was the fresh paint mixed slightly with the layer of varnish which whilst it gives the entire cutlass a deep rich shine it also blended the three tones of paint into a nice aged look. Because the varnish dries really fast the water based paint was fixed in place before it could blend (smudge) too much.

The final finish may not be 100% perfect or accurate but i like it lol.


  1. Wow,it looks like real!It's perfect for me!!!

  2. Ewa: Lol & that is just Sharky's culass, wait until you see him when finished lol. Thnkyou for the nice comment much appreciated.

  3. Stopping by to say hello!

  4. Caroline: Hello lol. How you doing?

  5. hi JOnty!
    awesome finish...i just copied your post,print it ,now i go to digest a's raining, i had pneumonia still not feeling v well..i miss the sun and pm-ing too some paper and a failed balloon bowl was everything i done lately lol...

  6. Ildiko: Thankyou hun. Sorry to hear you have been ill, glad your mending now tough. It has been quite sunny here recently. The four new dragon vases i started the first one i started burst on me after the first two layers of paper. Thats the most critical time those first layers. I normally get one burst every 6/7 balloons lol.

  7. i tried a very fast "pulp" on the balloon-no blender at all-and though it was heavy and hard to make it fight the gravity i did it using a roll of gauze bandages over it.after a day of drying felt down and didn't wanted to stick to the balloon i got mad and paste it over a little round mirror...that's something new i will work on when dried --i hope it wouldn't last for weeks--

  8. Ildiko: I would have been amazed if the pulp had stuck to be honest. I will have to do a HOW TO on working with balloons lol. For now try this:

    1] layer a balloon in 2 layers of news print if you want to continue using thicker paper such as white printer paper.

    2] Layer a balloon in 3/6 layers of news print if you want to layer the balloon in a heavy pulp. 3 layers for a light pulp & 6 layers for a heavy pulp.

    3] Allow the first layers of news print to FULLY dry BEFORE adding any pulp.

    ALWAYS keep the balloon in a WARM room util the news print & or pulp layers are dried.

    Also see my 30 things about balloons in an earlier post of mine.

  9. Hey there Jonty,

    Haven't been around for a while. Work is pretty much in full swing now.

    Really love what you’ve been doing while I was away.

    Witchy is looking hot and I love what you’ve done with the Plasti-Kote.

    It reminds me of an installation I did in college. I used two huge slabs of Styrofoam and some spray paint to create two huge metal looking pieces held together by a steel pole attached to a round base.

    The paint ate into the Styrofoam and made it look like pitted metal. I loved watching the other students touching it, trying to figure out what exactly it was.

  10. Luella: Lol thats what i love about Plasti-Kote metal hammer paint. With just 1 basic layer you can create a stunning age steel look.In fact i know wbere i am going to use it next in fact stay tuned lol.